Olympic Spirit

In the last few months we've had quite a few requests from knitting club members for an Olympic style sweater. We found one we liked and dolly-sized it down. It's from the Hudson's Bay Company Olympic clothing line. As it turns out, there is a little controversy surrounding it's production in Asia rather than Canada, but we still think it is a pretty decent design regardless of who's knitting it.

For those who find the Olympics to be inappropriate, we sincerely don't wish to offend you - we simply like this jacket design. This jacket is knit in regular stockinette stitch gauge, so you can knit it plain or add your own design. To help you do that, here is a PDF of the blank charts. You can print them out and create as many of your own designs as you like. We left the collar in gray since it may not be obvious where it starts exactly. Use the same shaping symbols in whatever colors suit and you are ready to go! The collar is worked the same as for the club pattern. Click here to download the blank charts now.

Here's a video which shows the real sweater - you have to watch it to the end....

Polka Dots and Pompoms

The November 2009 DB Knitting club project is a feminine Baby Doll Tunic. We were very pleased with how versatile the project ended up being. It is a perfectly fitted sweater, with high cut set in sleeves and a fitted waist - almost like a sloper in fingering yarn. To test our theory, we decided to turn the tunic into a dress with a fabric skirt using a minimum of sewing. It is possible to make this without a sewing machine, but much easier with one! All you  need is a straight stitch. A zig zag would be nice. A serger for finishing edges would be great here too.

Here's how to make the dress, using the DB Knitting Club instructions for the Baby Doll Tunic:

In addition to the yarn to make the bodice, you will need 2 pieces of fabric, such as a cotton quilt print; a piece for the skirt, which is self lined. You will also  need a smaller piece for the back extension. If you are using a fabric heavier than quilting fabric, you may find the skirt is way too full to gather - you will have to cut it a little shorter across the width.

For a 11 1/2" doll, cut the skirt fabric 12"wide x 7-1/2"long. If your fabric is directional, the 12" width goes around the waist. Cut the back extension piece 1" wide x 1-1/4" long. 

For a 16" doll, cut the skirt fabric 18"wide  x 11"long. If your fabric is directional, the 18" width goes around the waist. Cut the back extension piece 1-1/4" wide x 1-3/4" long. 

To knit the bodice, cast on 38 sts for the 11 1/2" doll or 45 sts for the 16" doll. In the instructions, just skip the skirt and go directly to the heading Bodice and follow from there. Make the sleeves and collar as described. Follow the directions for finishing, with these changes: 

• don't sew up the center back seam. 
• Add the edging to the left back edge, but just pick up 26 sts (instead of 30) for the 11 1/2" doll and 40 sts (instead of 46) for the 16" doll. 
• Don't sew on any fasteners yet but go ahead and make the belt, although you may want to wait judge the final length of the belt with the fabric skirt sewn on.
  

To make the skirt, follow the steps and diagrams below.

1. With the shorter edge at the top, and with right sides together, fold the extension in half. Stitch across the lower short edge. Turn and press. 
   
2. Place your skirt fabric right side up on a table. The longer edge is across the top (that's the waist). Now position the extension on the top left corner, with the raw edge corners lined up with the top left corner of the skirt fabric. Baste in place, taking a scant 1/4" seam allowance. 
3.  Fold the skirt over, right sides together. Mark as shown in the diagram and stitch the seam in between, taking a 1/4" seam allowance.
   
4. Now turn the skirt to the right side and press the seam open.
5. Fold the skirt up so that the lower edge meets the top edge. This creates the self lining.
6. Now you can see the fold becomes the hem. 
7. Press the open ends of the seam back 1/4". Slip stitch the folded edges of the self lining to the back of the extension. Stitch the other side the same way. The diagram doesn't show it, but at this point, you will probably also want to finish the top edge with a 3 thread serge or a basic zigzag stitch, just to neaten it up. Cut away the extra threads.
8. Stitch 2 rows of basting stitches around the top edge. Stitch one 1/4" from the edge and the other about 3/8" from the edge. 
9. Pull up to gather to fit the waist edge of the bodice. Tie securely and bury the threads in the skirt. Slip stitch the skirt in place.

 

Finish as described in the pattern: lap left back over right back extension. Sew 4 sets of snap fastener or hooks and eyes to right back extension and left back opening edges: position one set at the top collar edge. Place the 2nd set where the collar joins the bodice, the 3rd set at the waistline and the 4th set halfway between the 2nd and 3rd sets.

French Flair

Well that didn't take long! As soon as we put up our newest pattern, the Empire Sundress with Matching Clutch bag, we received 3 emails asking what the fabric was. Sorry! It isn't ours so you can't print it out (Oh how I wish I was that talented!). But it is available from Fig Tree Quilts, from their newish "Patisserie" collection. The map fabric design is "French Countryside" in a color way they call "Angel Food" (20106 11). The coordinating floral design is "Gateau" in a color way called "Sugar Baby" (20101 13). Such rich colors - aren't they gorgeous?  You can make both the 11 1/2" and 16" doll size dresses and their matching clutches easily with one fat quarter.  

Thread Loops 2 Ways

If you are making the Empire Sun Dress, or any doll dress with a tie or ribbon belt, you might need to add loops to hold the belt in place. As always, with doll clothes they need to be as delicate and inconspicuous as possible. Here are 2 methods to make thread loops. 

Blanket Stitch Version: This is the classic thread loop made using the blanket stitch. For dolls, just use a double strand of your matching sewing thread. For people clothes, you might use buttonhole thread. Begin by taking a few stitches that are the desired length of your finished loop - this is important as these stitches determine the finished length of your loop. For the loops on the Empire Sundress, be sure not to make these stitches too short or you will have a heck of a time getting the tie belt through them. On the other hand, if the loops are too long, your belt will droop! There isn't a lot of room for error on tiny doll clothes, so pay attention. Of course, secure the threads with a few backstitches. Then work blanket stitches over these stitches for the entire length. 
Chain Stitch Version: While the above method is more traditional, I actually prefer this version for dolls clothes. It is so quick and neat and it makes a really fine, yet strong chain that you can adjust the length of, as you work. It is a whole lot easier than it looks here. You just crochet a chain with your fingers. But if you need to, follow these diagrams: 

1. Use a double length of thread and fasten securely with a few stitches at one end of the loop. 

2. Then form a larger loop in the same place by taking one more stitch but not pulling it tight. 

3. Now while holding on to the needle with one hand, with the other hand, slip your thumb and 2 fingers through the loop and pull up another loop. Now, with the same hand, use your middle finger to pull up another loop. Tighten the loops as you work and continue until your chain is the right length.

4. When your loop is the right length, thread the needle through the last loop to finish the chain. Finally, secure the chain in place with a few stitches.

And you thought you were obsessed!

How did you get those beads over all that yarn?

I had a question from a very capable club member, who was wondering how on earth I managed to get the beads over 6 strands of yarn for the shoulder straps on the "Blue in June" project. After having broken at least 5 needle threaders, she was beginning to wonder if it was even possible. Frustrated, she gave up, emailed me and went to bed. Sorry about that.... 

I haven't heard from anyone else, which of course could mean that no one else has made the top. But just in case you are having the same problem, here's a few tips.

First, if you remember, for the photo sample, I used pearl cotton #10, doubled, which meant I was working with 6, not 3 strands.  The eyelet in my bead was large enough for me to thread 6 strands of #10 through. And so then I was able to squish them to get in all 12, and this kept the bead from sliding around. I didn't try to thread them  through all at once - I did it in sets of 3 or 4 and then pushed those aside while I threaded the remainders. I  just used a basic crewel needle.  Here's a picture I took of the beads I used next to a ruler:

and a picture with the bead pushed up to show how it looks with all 12 threads - squished but fitting - the braid is done with 3 sets of 4 yarns:

One last thing: My beads are Mill Hill Glass Pebble beads stock #G05147

Blue in June

Poor Ellowyne™. She didn't make it to the photo shoot on time to be featured on the website or in the club pattern. How must she feel? She and I agree that you really must see how cute she looks in her Blue in June club knitting project. For those of you knitting for Ellowyne™, don't change the pattern. This top is slightly loose around the bust, as usual, but not enough to alter. The straps are adjustable as per the pattern instructions. 

Ellowyne™ also suggests this would make a great cropped top and a nice little gift for a dolly friend. To knit as a cropped top, simply cast on 39 sts for 11 1/2" dolls or 51 sts for the 16" size. In the pattern, work from the point it says: 

Bodice: Continue as follows to add the bodice, 

or follow Chart 2 on page 5 (or page 6 for 16" size)

Click on the photo to see a supersize shot.